The watts 1156 auto fill valve

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Replace Watts 1156 fill valve

How to replace a fill valve.
First turn the water to the boiler off.
In some cases you may need to drain the boiler.
If you do. Make sure the power to the boiler is off
If you have Anti freeze in your system, "Call a Professional" Find a local Plumbing and Heating contractor

	Click on any Picture to see a larger view. The Fill Valve in this picture does not work at all the boiler has 2 psi in it it needs to be replaced The valve before the fill valve has no handle so I am going to replace that too.
	The water is off and the power is off and the boiler is drained. With two wrenches one to hold the fill valve from moving and the other to loosen the brass nut just push the nut to the side like in the picture Now with the two wrenches one on the fitting to the left of the fill valve and the other on the fill valve un screw the fill valve from the fitting.

	This is what the inside if the fill valve looked like too. completely full of rust Put some pipe dope or tape on the threads of the fitting you removed the old fill valve from and screw the new fill valve on the fitting Make sure you use two wrenches go one full turn past hand tight.
	Now lets get rid of that bad valve I know that most people are afraid of soldering so I am replacing this one with a compression ball valve instead of soldering a new valve in So first we cut the pipe on both sides of the valve. I made sure I had the main valve off first.
	This is what the valve looks like notice the nut and the ring
	After you cut off the old valve clean the end of the copper with sand cloth. then slide one of the nuts over the pipe
	Then slide the compression ring over the pipe

	Then Slide the valve on to the pipe. I like to put a little pipe dope on the ring. The manufacturer says not to But I do anyway. Then with two wrenches I tighten the nut Make sure it is good and tight, But not so tight you crack the nut.
	On the left side of the valve I used a 1/2" female Iron pipe size x male copper fitting adaptor The male copper end fits into the other side of the ball valve then I used a 1/2 brass nipple to make up the difference. The whole job was done with out the need of any soldering
	Don't forget to put the washer in and tighten the nut. Now you need to get the air out of the boiler