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Why does my furnace need an
For the most part Amtrol
expansion tank is the most commonly used
|Before I get into how to replace it,
I should ask, does it really need to be
If it is leaking, then it's simple, It needs to be replaced. See Boiler relief valve
If it is full of water, it needs to be replaced, Tap the tank the back should sound hollow, if not, it is full. if it is full, that means it will be very heavy, So be careful not to let drop on your fingers when you remove it.
|If there is no air pressure in the
tank. use an air gauge you should have
12 psi. But remember you let air out
every time you test it. If it does not
have 12 psi you can pump it up to 12 psi
with a pump. But this is just a
temporary patch and it will go flat
again. so it should be replaced.
Although a water logged Expansion tank will cause a relief valve on a boiler to leak and /or blow off. It is not the only reason the relief valve leaks and or blows off.
See why is my relief valve leaking? by clicking here
|Note: The #110 and the #30 are the
exact same size tank. but they are not
The #110 is part of a Filtrol System and only screws into a Filtrol fill valve. There are 2 types of Filtrol fill valves one has a valve handle to turn the water off the other does not. In the pictures below you will see the both of them.
Filtrol With Handle and Filtrol With Out Handle. Click on Picture for larger picture. The #110 and the # 109 will only screw into one of these valves. The #15 and the # 30 will screw in to any 1/2" iron pipe size fitting. The #109 and the #15 are also the same size as each other. but about 1/2 the size of the #30 and The #110.
|This is a # 30 it screws into the bottom of an air scoop This one will be easy to change, but if it is water logged it will come down hard once you unscrew it. It is very heavy when full of water.|
|This is also a #30 tank And this
would also be easy to replace.
Ok So now we have determined if we should replace it or not and what type of tank we need. So lets replace the thing already.
|First Turn the power to the boiler off. Then Turn the water to the boiler off. Follow the fill valve back till you see a valve to turn off. If you have valves on your supply and return lines. you may want to turn them all off to prevent draining all your zones.|
|Then hook up a hose to the lowest boiler drain and relieve the pressure|
|If you have to drain the whole boiler to remove the tank you may want to remove an auto vent to allow air to get into the top to allow the boiler to drain faster.|
|The Rest is easy unscrew the old one and put some kind of pipe dope or tape dope on the threads. (only on the15 and #30) and screw the new one back in The #109 And #110 do not need and pipe dope or tape dope they have an O ring that makes the water tight seal. ok that's it you are done put the auto vent back. turn the boiler drain off turn the water back on Get the Air out turn the power back on.|
|Before you turn the power back on and fire up the boiler, be sure the boiler is full of water and the heat lines are also full of water.|
|You may need to remove air from the
heat loops please follow this link to
remove air from your system
Running a boiler without water in is will cause damage to the boiler, please be sure it is full before you turn the power back on.
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